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Emily Nyman
Mar 21, 2023
In General Discussions
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Emily Nyman
Jan 17, 2022
In General Discussions
Since we are moving towards using the members area of the website, I felt as if now was a good time to introduce ourselves! Please let us know who you are, how you found out about the Arapawa goats, and any other information you may think is useful! Emily
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Emily Nyman
Oct 31, 2021
In Goat Care and More
General Appearance: The standard Arapawa goat is a small, light-framed animal with all parts of the body in balanced proportion relative to its size. The buck presents as heavier in the head, neck and forequarters than the more refined doe. All Arapawa goats have distinctly patterned faces, which are long and narrow; dark brown or black-striped facial markings are distinctive features of the Arapawa breed. The ears are placed at the upper part of the skull and are small and expressive. Horns should be present and symmetrical, with the does’ sweeping up towards the back, and the mature bucks’ sweeping up, back and curling outwards. The overall picture is that of an alert, good-natured, attractive animal. Arapawa goats do not have wattles or blue eyes. Size: Does and bucks are considered mature at 24 months. As a general guideline, height at withers of a mature animal should be 61-71 cms (24-28 inches) for females and 66-76 cms (26 to 30 inches) for males. Desirable Features: Distinguishing male from female: Sexual differences between doe and buck should be immediately obvious. Eyes: Full of expression, alert and bright, the Arapawa goats’ eyes have an amber iris and a black pupil. Head and Neck: Strong and in proportion to the length of the body. The head is wide at the eyes and tapers to form a distinct bridge at the nose. Some (male and female) sport elegant goatee beards. Back: Must be strong, broad and relatively straight. The presence of a dorsal stripe or shading along the center of the spine is expected. Loins: Should give the appearance of strength. These attach to a wide, generous croup. Rump: Continues the topline, and should have a gently sloping appearance to allow for easy kidding. Tail: Short in relation to the body, pointing upwards. Ears: The ears are erect and medium in length OR folded, reaching just below the eye level. Limbs: The front legs should be in proportion to the depth of the body. The legs should be straight, strong and well placed, with strong pastern joints and well-formed, dark hooves. Color: Arapawa goats vary in colour but are predominantly black, tan or ginger, brown, white and cream in varying combinations, with dark brown or black badger stripes on the face. Pure black Arapawa goats are accepted. Coat: Lustrous and in good condition, free of foreign debris and parasites. The coat can be smooth, or the coat can be long on the hind quarters (petticoat), or all over, with some fringing along the back. In winter they have fine, matted underwool coats. Doe: A strong emphasis on femininity. The round-bellied look of the Old English goat breeds, slender and fine-boned. The horns of the does are round, shorter than the bucks and curve backwards over the head. The doe should appear finer than the buck. Both her fore and hind legs should appear strong, but correspondingly finer and more delicate than the male’s. Buck: A strong emphasis on masculinity. The round-bellied look of the Old English goat breeds, but should be solid and stocky. Flattened, wide-sweeping horns. The buck’s body structure should show more massive muscling than that of the doe. Undesirable Features: Does not necessarily lead to disqualification: · Arched or sway back · Overly fine-boned/appearing fraile · Visible teeth · Toes pointing outwards · Knock knees · Lack of masculinity in bucks · Uneven udder · Steep rump · Supernumerary teats Reasons for disqualification include: · Wattles · Bent or twisted facial expression · Divided or uneven scrotum · One testicle or undescended testicles. · Blue eyes · Hermaphrodite
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Emily Nyman
Aug 14, 2021
In Goat Care and More
Barberpole and Liver fluke parasites in small ruminants Emily Nyman Its summertime which means does have had kids, the sun is shining, and the grass is growing! While this sounds pretty ideal for you and me, this also sounds like a breeding ground for parasites. Parasites love the weakened immune system of the doe that just kidded, the sun and humidity it brings, and the grass it can hide in. Growing up, I learned that you deworm on a schedule, once in the spring and again in the fall (some people do it once a month!), and as the animals look like they need it. While that may have worked for several people 10+ years ago, the parasites have become more resistant due to the constant deworming, underdosing, and not using the proper dewormers. I am no vet, nor do I claim to be. I started to research internal parasites after losing a few animals to Haemonchus contortus (Barberpole worm). I became fascinated by the life cycle of the parasites, how quickly they reproduce, and the amount of damage that can be done to the animal in just a few days. I started to gather as much information as possible and started developing a program that would work for us. What we were doing wasn't working anymore for our program, so it was time to change things up. Now I firmly believe it is vital to have a vet that you can work with, but just some words of advice... not all vets are equal. I mean that your vet knows how to run a fecal and will tell you what its eggs per gram are, but they probably aren't going to tell you what kind of parasites they are. They may be "old school" and suggest scheduled deworming, which many vets were taught. Talk around and try to find a vet knowledgeable in internal parasites, and it will genuinely help you out! Symptoms of parasites Anemia Farmacia Scours Bottle jaw - Fluid under the jaw Hunched back - From pain Coughing Lethargy Loss of appetite Weight Loss Just "died all of a sudden" It can be overlooked by inexperienced owners I will only be talking about Barberpole worm and Liver fluke, as they are the two most deadly parasites. Now there are many other parasites like tapeworm, lungworm, and cocci (which is not a worm like the others). Cocci would need its own entire writing! The Barberpole worm is a bloodsucker that will destroy the lining of the stomach to access the bloodstream. The destruction can cause anemia, scours, and weight loss due to the animal's inability to digest feed completely. The worm feeds off of their host after they attach to the wall of the abomasum. The worm will cause extreme anemia and can get out of control very quickly. The lifecycle of this parasite is 2-3 weeks, and a single worm can lay 10,000 eggs a day. A single parasite can drink .05 milligrams of blood per day. That doesn't sound like a lot, but if you have a 150 lbs goat, that is a cup of blood per day, and a goat that weighs 150 lbs has roughly 20.32 cups. Liver Flukes burrow tunnels in the liver, causing scarring as the body tries to repair the damage. The scar tissue is not functional, and the liver loses part of its ability to function. Because of the toxins in the liver, it can severely damage other organs. Animals typically show signs of being depressed and anemic. Goats of any age are not able to create an immunity to Liver Fluke. A high infestation can cause death in 1-2 weeks. One fluke can have anywhere from 5,000-20,000 eggs! (wow, that is a lot!) One of the best ways to check for blood-sucking worms is by checking the goat's FAMACHA. This is a test where you pull back the eyelid to match the color of the flesh on the inside of the eyelid. There are plenty of helpful tips on the internet that can assist in learning how to do FAMACHA testing on your livestock, and you can even become FAMACHA certified online! It is important to note what your animal's FAMACHA is. Some animals tend to have a lower FAMACHA, which is typical for that animal. Use the FAMACHA as a guide, not an absolute. Now, when in doubt, talk to your vet! Blindly treating your livestock with dewormers can cause the parasites in your area to become resistant to the dewormers you are using. Most sheep and goats are already resistant to moxidectin-based dewormers due to their overuse and misuse. Misusing dewormers can look like under-dosing your goats for their weight, not using the correct dewormer for the type of parasites your animal has, and not using a follow-up dewormer. This has been proven to be more harmful than helpful. You can only be 100% certain of what parasite you are dealing with by doing a fecal test. One of the easiest ways to find out what parasites your goats are dealing with is by doing a McMaster test, which is a fecal test. The McMaster test uses a specific slide that allows the parasite eggs to float to the top and the debris to sink. The test is done by mixing manure with a flotation fluid. The slide has grids on it, and you count a specific parasite's egg in the slide. Once you have calculated the eggs in both grids, you multiply the eggs x 50, and you get your eggs per gram. The University of Rhode Island has a great resource on how to do your own McMaster test at home (here). If you do not want to do your own test, work with your vet, and they should be able to do a fecal test for you relatively cheap. You can also collect fecal material and mail it in (here are a few places you can mail it to) As with anything, use your observation skills. Do your goats have a high fecal egg count and a low FAMACHA? Resilient goats are better able to tolerate their parasite load, while resistant goats have fewer parasites. There are three classes of dewormers that are approved in the United States. The Benzimidazoles (Valbazen), Macrocyclic lactones, which are your Avermectins (Ivomec) and Milibimycins (Cydectin), and Nicontinics (Levamisole). Each dewormer targets specific parasites, so make sure you read what they treat and the dosage. Some dewormers are not suitable for pregnant does, have a protracted withdrawal, or have special instructions. Internal parasite prevention can be done! A few things that can help prevent parasites are: Good management Good sanitation Good nutrition Culling for parasite resistant genetics Pasture rotation and rest Mixed species grazing Minimum grazing height (no lower than 3 inches) Zero grazing Selective deworming Now I know I just said don't schedule deworm your animals, but there is one instance where I will. Does suffer a temporary immunity to parasites two weeks before kidding, and their immunity is restored four weeks are kidding. I believe it is important to deworm yours does a few days after kidding, as parasites can take a doe down quickly if you are in an area with a high parasite population. I prefer to only use Prohibit (levamisole hydrochloride) as 1) my last resort, no other dewormer is working dewormer, and 2) for does that just kidded. This one is one you have to read the instructions and mix up yourself. While parasites may seem daunting, you can handle them. Many great resources help you figure out what would work best for your livestock and program. No deworming program is going to be the same for each farm. Find a vet you can trust, watch out for parasite symptoms, and get your fecals done! If you have any questions feel free to reach out! I am always happy to help in any way I can.
HERD HEALTH TOPIC: Barberpole and Liver fluke parasites content media
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Emily Nyman
Mar 18, 2021
In General Discussions
Good morning AGBA members! I am attaching a logo that members are allowed to use on their social media and websites to show that they are members of the AGBA! Please let me know if you have any questions. There is both a JPG and a PNG file for use.
Logo for member use content media
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Emily Nyman
Jan 17, 2021
In General Discussions
Members will be receiving an email from arapawa.webmaster@gmail.com to receive updated information. I will be updating the members directory and will be placing an active breeders directory to those who wish to be on it for the general public to see. If you have any questions please let me know. :)
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Emily Nyman
Dec 01, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
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Emily Nyman
Oct 29, 2020
In Goat Care and More
Since our Arapawa population is critically-endangered with US numbers around 300+, herd health is BEYOND IMPERATIVE, as much as our genetic diversity is within the breed. Our network of breeders are spread out across America, with pockets of herds existing in the Northeast, East Coast, and Midwest. With clear communication, information sharing, consistent disease-testing, and good herd management including biosecurity practices, we as breeders/owners can continue the work of increasing and advancing this wonderful and unique goat. Paratuberculosis or Johne’s Disease (pronounced “YO-knees”) is a highly transmittable and contagious goat disease. It is difficult to detect in some lab tests, is transmitted through milk, feces, and in utero (from dam to kid), and studies are still unclear if it is contagious to humans. It’s akin to the human version of Crohn’s Disease, wherein the gastrointestinal system of goats is severely affected, causing malabsorption of food and chronic wasting. Johne’s Disease can survive in soil for years, and is untreatable, without any vaccine available and no known cure. It is caused by the bacterium, Mycobacterium avium subsp. paratuberculosis or MAP, for short. Goats can be infected with either a sheep or goat variant of the bacteria, and the disease is also present in wild populations of deer, elk, and bison. This debilitating goat disease, as well as several others (like CAE, CL) is NOT something you want in your herd, and conscientious herd management and biosecurity is highly recommended. What are the symptoms of Johne’s Disease? Main symptoms of Johne’s Disease include: · progressive weight loss starting after age 1 and before age 3 (despite appearing to eat and drink normally AND appearing asymptomatic) · rough coat · depressed and/or inactive behavior/fatigue · diarrhea · death Kids born to a Johne’s-positive dam MAY BE exposed to the disease (in utero and once they begin nursing). Kid goats can potentially be exposed to MAP bacterium from fecal matter (in stalls, in soil of affected pastures). Pulling kids from dams upon kidding, therefore, won’t necessarily protect them from exposure. PREVENTION is key! However, intensive management after a confirmed positive in one’s herd IS POSSIBLE. Here’s a great link about that: https://johnes.org/goats/control/ These symptoms (rough coat, weight loss, diarrhea, lethargy) can be caused by other illnesses/diseases (i.e. internal/external parasites, nutritional deficiencies/imbalances) or herd management issues (dominant goats blocking subordinates from feeding). Take a closer look at your entire herd, and be proactive about contacting a veterinarian who’s well-versed in small ruminant problems. Testing and Next Steps Necropsy of a symptomatic goat and tissue sample testing is the only DEFINITIVE method for disease confirmation. However, there are several other tests available for detecting Johne’s in your herd: 1. Blood/serum or milk antibody (ELISA or AGID): Results take 3-5 days depending on lab · symptomatic goats/actively shedding bacteria--test detects antibodies 85-100% of the time · asymptomatic goats/not shedding at time of test—test detects antibodies only 20-50% of the time 2. DNA PCR Assay: Can be conducted via fecal or tissue culture. Reliability is similar to fecal culture, but results return in 7-10 days depending on lab 3. Fecal culture: only gives positive result if animal is actively shedding the bacteria into its system (and a symptomatic goat may or MAY NOT actively shed the bacteria). Results take 7-13 weeks. This is not the RECOMMENDED way to test. **NOTE: Testing can be conducted individually (per goat) or herd-wide in pooled sampling methods (fecal PCR). Depending on your farm/herd, it is important to discuss with a vet or accredited laboratory which test (a blood sample or fecal PCR) best fits your needs. Some links for accredited veterinary labs that offer Johne’s testing (and various other goat disease tests/panels): https://waddl.vetmed.wsu.edu/labs-sections/immunodx-serology/caprine-and-ovine https://www.vet.cornell.edu/animal-health-diagnostic-center/testing/protocols/johnes-disease-program https://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/lab_info_services/downloads/ApprovedLabs_Johnes_serology.pdf When should testing be conducted? · any time you suspect Johne’s in your herd based on the above-mentioned symptoms · before you purchase Arapawa goats from other AGBA active-member breeders (ask for copies of recent herd testing results and/or request and pay for testing to be performed on the intended goats/herd) · before you purchase goats from non-AGBA breeders who claim to possess Arapawa goats (ask for pedigrees, genetic tests from our AGBA database, not from Pedigree International) · yearly if you are actively breeding and selling goats (can be pooled for herd testing) If you have questions and/or concerns, always feel free to reach out to the Arapawa Goat Breeders Association for more guidance and assistance. We are here to support and help each other and conserve this beautiful breed. ***Information taken from Holistic Goat Care, Giancalis Caldwell; johnes.org (University of Wisconsin-Madison, School of Veterinary Medicine; https://waddl.vetmed.wsu.edu/animal-disease-faq/johnes-testing
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Emily Nyman
Oct 27, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
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Emily Nyman
Oct 27, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
Follow this link: https://us02web.zoom.us/rec/play/OBMdWCzrjM-Gv7dROyukK38FAkhsnmy4HHRZKeS4ikKkSHwnBUi_ixrKdgogrNz99qtFI7Pl_Rni8Jtk.aVqrPtsOjC5mS2ck?continueMode=true Password: %s.3A0gD
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Emily Nyman
Feb 20, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
Read the newsletter and let us know if you have any questions or thoughts!
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Emily Nyman
Feb 20, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
Read the newsletter and let us know if you have any questions or thoughts!
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Emily Nyman
Feb 20, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
Read the newsletter and let us know if you have any questions or thoughts!
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Emily Nyman
Feb 20, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
Read the newsletter and let us know if you have any questions or thoughts!
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Emily Nyman
Feb 20, 2020
In Arapawa Newsletter
Read the newsletter and let us know if you have any questions or thoughts!
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Emily Nyman
Jan 15, 2020
In Goat Care and More
Have you been wondering what you need for your kidding kit? Here is a great list from Newbury Farms! Check out the link here: https://www.newburyfarms.com/blogs/news/the-complete-kidding-kit What other things do you feel you need when kidding?
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Emily Nyman
May 08, 2019
In General Discussions
It’s good to have you here! Feel free to share anything - stories, ideas, pictures or whatever is on your mind. Here you can start discussions, connect with members, reply to comments, and more. Have something to say? Leave a comment or share a post!
Welcome to the Forum! content media
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